A PARADISE CALLED ACHANAKMAR

Achanakmar is a Wildlife Sanctuary located in the Achanakmar - Amarkantak Biosphere reserve in the Maikal Hills of the Satpuras. The protected area of Achanakmar measures roughly 625 sq km and is made up of hilly terrain on the foothills of higher mountains. It is well connected to the Kanha and Pench Tiger reserves in Madhya Pradesh by the Kanha - Achanakmar corridor. This has lead to healthy migration of wildlife from one reserve to another. It is one of the important reserves for endangered species in Central India. The sanctuary was granted a Tiger Reserve status in 2009. It is 60 kms from Bilaspur, Chhattisgarh.

Achanakmar, translated in Hindi means ‘sudden attack’. When you enter the forest, seeing its denseness and the rugged terrain, you get the feeling that the name has been aptly given and the jungle can prove its name at any point of time. I have been to Achanakmar twice before, and the pristine beauty of this forest has never failed to mesmerize me. It was here that I had had my first jungle safari. It was here that an inclination towards wildlife sprouted in me. So, in the month of February 2017, when a trip was being planned for Amarkantak, I made it sure to add Achanakmar Tiger Reserve to its itinerary. The plan was to visit Amarkantak first, stay there for a day. And then on our way back, make a night stay at Achanakmar and have an open gypsy jungle safari the day after.

Me and my mother departed my home at Champa on a weekend at around 11AM and after a long drive of 5hrs reached Amarkantak. We stayed there at the MP Tourism Resort. The next day we visited the various tourist spots and then after having lunch, proceeded towards ATR.

We were stopped at the Keonchi check post, the entry point of the Reserve, and informed that the road from Keonchi to Achanakamar was closed for general public. The road cuts straight through the core zone of the Tiger Reserve. Earlier this road was used for travelling from Bilaspur to Amarkantak. But since recently the number of tigers in the reserve has increased and tigers have been spotted quite a few times crossing this road, the Forest Department had decided to block the road for vehicular movement. This is a commendable step towards wildlife conservation. I had already booked my stay at the Chhattisgarh Forest Dept Resort which is located on the same route. On producing the booking confirmation the officials contacted the resort over walky-talky and then allowed us to enter the road.

It was at around 4PM that we entered the forest. We drove at a slow speed and constantly maintained a watch on the forest to spot some wildlife. All we were being able to see were some spotted dears. After about an hour of driving, suddenly my mother whispered there was something ahead on the side of the road. I stopped my car, and could not believe my eyes. It was an Indian Wild Dog - the Dhole.

Indian Wild Dog - Dhole

It was quite far away from where we had stopped the car and hence, did not take us as any threat. It was drinking water from a pothole. My SLR was packed in the bag and would have taken long time to get it ready. So took the point-n-shoot cam out of the dashboard and started filming it. I looked around for its pack in the vicinity, but it seemed to be wandering alone. I managed to take few snaps before the sound of an approaching Motor Bike spooked it off. We waited there for some time hoping for it to return, but in vain. I was in awe. I had witnessed one of the rarest and most ruthless predators in Achanakmar, that too not while in a safari. My trip to ATR could already be labeled a huge success.

We then resumed our journey and reached the resort at around 7PM. We freshened up and then enjoyed onion pakodas over a cup of coffee. At around 10PM we had dinner.

Baiga's Resort - Shivtarai

The next day started at 6AM with Langur alarm calls. I went out to see where the langur was and spotted it over a tree. I searched for some predator around, but could not see any. The Langur continued its call till noon. The reason remained mysterious. After having lunch at 2PM, we checked out of resort and drove to the Safari entry gate. 

Safari entry Gate - ATR

There are only three safari gypsies available for booking and is allotted on first-come, first-served basis. Since I had already booked my safari over phone, I had no problem in getting one then. The forest officials completed their paper work and allowed us in the Reserve sharp at 4PM.

The Jungle Trail

The Guide was very well-informed. His knowledge of Flora around the reserve was cosmic which he continued to impart throughout the safari. As per the guide, there are 18 Tigers in the sanctuary. And the last time any safari vehicle had spotted one was a month back. However, a Leopard had been spotted three days back. With mixed hopes and the positive feeling of having already spotted a Dhole, we entered the forest.

I was previously lucky to sight a leopard on my second trip to ATR. Could I get lucky once more?

Grey Hornbill

We moved towards Saraipani waterhole via Satapani area. Saraipani is one of the favorite places for wildlife wanting to extinguish thirst. And hence chances of sighting predators are positive here. It also has few crocodiles. We reached Saraipani and waited there for some time hoping to see a Tiger or a Leopard. There was no trace of a cat. Even the jungle was silent with no alarm calls. We could not see any Crocs either. 

Indian Bison

After failing in our endeavor, we headed towards Majhidongri, a watch tower. The view from the tower is awesome and gives the idea of the vastness of the jungle. All I could see was a beautiful green carpet of tree tops for as far as my vision could run. 

View from Majhidongri

After soaking in this heavenly view, we headed towards Jalda area before making an exit. Meanwhile, during the safari we had spotted herds of Bison, Spotted Deer, Barking Deer, Wild Boar, Indian Golden Jackal, Malabar Giant Squirrel, Rufous Tree pie, Racket tailed Drongo, Grey Hornbill, Indian Peafowl, Alexandrine and Plum headed parakeet, Indian Black Ibis, Brown Fish Owl, Red vented Bulbul, Black Cormorant, White breasted kingfisher, Brahminy Starling, Red Jungle Fowl. 

Peacock

Brahminy Starling

We were very much satisfied with the variety of wildlife we had witnessed. 

Red Jungle Fowl

But one thing still eluded the list, a big cat. As time passed and dusk fell, I was losing hopes of seeing one. Then the guide mentioned that he had once spotted a Leopard on the way to Jalda (the road we were on) and instructed the driver to go slow. His words rekindled my desire to see a cat.

Malabar Giant Squirrel

Not later than 5mins after he had uttered the inspiring words, my mother exclaimed “Leopard!!”. The driver braked heavily. A Leopard was sitting on the road behind a rock on a sharp bend. By the time I could realize what was happening, the Leopard, startled to see our gypsy, made a run for cover in the jungle. It suddenly stopped behind some fallen branches of a tree and examined us for a moment, and then continued its run into the jungle. All these was over within 10-15 seconds. It was at around 5:45 PM and very little light percolated through the thick canopy above. I had to pump up the ISO and somehow manage to get few shots. It was such an exhilarating feeling to see this beautiful animal. The Black rosettes on the Golden fur seemed to have been painted by God himself. It was exquisite. This was easily one of the best wildlife sightings I had ever had.

Leopard

With hearts filled with joy we headed towards the exit. After reaching the exit gate, we were requested by the Forest Department officials to jot down our experience on a log book. Overall this trip turned out to be a grand success with the sighting of Dhole and Leopard. After three trips to ATR, what I could deduce is that it is one of the most mysterious jungles in India. Each time you visit ATR, a new chapter unfolds. And it is never the same as it was before.

My thirst of visiting the mysterious jungles of ATR shall never be quenched.

                                                                    - HIMADRI SARKAR